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Sapphires: from royal cabinets out

How the standard for colour was rewritten over a century.

Four faceted blue sapphires on a white ground
Four faceted blue sapphires on a white ground · Plate: W. Carter · CC BY 4.0

Early European collectors prized the star and the inclusion as proof of a natural stone; from the mid twentieth century the market began to pay for purity and saturation, and treatments spread with it.

Today's buyers ask three things at once: origin, whether the stone was heated, and how the colour behaves in daylight against lamplight. Those three answers usually explain a hammer price better than carat weight.

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